Hanuman Tibba Expedition (5938m)
Trip Type: India Mountaineering
Region: Manali - Himachal
Grade: Moderately Challenging
Duration: 12 days
Max Altitude: 5938m
Batch Dates: 15 May - 29 May, 2022
Hanuman Tibba Expedition Overview
For the Hanuman Tibba expedition we travel North of Manali. At 5940m Hanuman Tibba is the highest peak in the Pir Panjal range. An ideal peak for climbers who have some mountaineering knowledge, Hanuman Tibba is popular for gaining technical experience on a relatively lower altitude.
In 1912 Gen. C.G. Bruce, the first mountaineer to explore this region, his chief guide, Heinrich Fuhrer together with a Gurkha soldier, Lal Bahadur Gurung made the first ascent of Hanuman Tibba (then called Solang Weisshorn by Westerners).
The approach for the mountain starts with a drive from Manali to Dhundi past the popular summer tourist spot Solangnala. We start our trek by making our way along the Beas river to the pastures at Bakarthach and past it to the Taintu gully which can be tricky to negotiate depending on the season and the weather. Once atop the gully, we make our way through a boulder field and glacier around the mountain to climb the South Face.
The peak can be graded PD on the Alpine grading system. Hanuman Tibba is approached from the Beas Kund Glacier. The crux of the climb are snow/ice walls on the summit day and the treacherous Taintu gully which is prone to regular rockfalls.
Dates and Cost
This is a custom departure tour and so please write to us for prices and more info on this climb.
Hanuman Tibba Expedition (5938m) Detailed Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Manali.
Arrive in Manali in the morning and check into your hotel. Walk around town and orient yourself to your surroundings. Final gear check and prepare for the climb ahead. Overnight in a hotel (stay and meals excluded in the trip cost).
Day 02: Manali - Bakarthach (3300m)
Duration: 4 - 5 hours
Drive up to Solangnala and further ahead on the Rohtang Tunnel road. We start our trek from Dhundi, on the banks of the Beas. We follow the river, through a couple snow bridges and gradually ascend to the meadow at Bakarthach.
Days 03 and 04: Acclimatisation days around Bhakarthach
Duration: Multiple Hours depending on various factors.
We take these days to explore the area around Bakarthach, acclimatise ourselves and brush up on our snow and ice skills for the climb ahead. Return back to base camp for the night on both days.
Day 05: Base Camp - Advance Base Camp - Base Camp
Duration: 7-8 hours
Today we move part of our loads to Advance Base Camp and the base of the Taintu Gully. We spend some time at altitude acclimatising and return to Bakarthach for the night.
Day 06 - 10: Climbing Days
We spend the next 5 days to establish ABC, Camp 1 and camp 2. We negotiate the taintu gully between ABC and Camp 1 early in the morning as late morning temperature loosens the rocks in the gully and the chances of getting caught in a rockfall increase. We cross Taintu Pass at the top of the gully and walk across a boulder field, towards the mountain to establish Camp. From there on, we now move along the mountain to cross over to the south-east face of the mountain and camp at the base of an ice wall. The climb to the summit is 2 short ice / snow walls that take you to the relatively gradual last stretch to the summit.
Day 11: Return to Base Camp at Bhakarthach from ABC.
Duration: 6-8 hours
We retrace our steps back to the meadows at Bakarthach.
Day 12: Return to Solang and drive back to Manali
Duration: 5 hours
We make our way to our waiting vehicles and drive to Manali. Trip Ends!
- Accommodation on twin sharing basis in tents.
- Camping Tents, Kitchen tents, Dining Tents, Western Style Toilet Tents.
- Insulated sleeping pads.
- All meals as detailed in the itinerary and safe drinking water.
- Cook and camp staff.
- Climbing guide for the duration of the trip
- Pack animals (Horses/Mules) to carry loads on the route until Base Camp with personal portage up to 20 kg/person
- All HP state Forest Permits,
- IMF Peak fee/State government royalty/permits where applicable
- All technical climbing group gear
- All transport from Manali to road head and back.
- All Staff Insurance
- Sleeping Bags
- Stay and food at hotels in Manali.
- All expenses of personal nature like bottled water, drinks, tips, telephone calls, mineral water etc.
- Any Personal Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing.
Any other transport than whats mentioned in Cost includes.
- Any expense incurred due to force majeure such as landslide, bad weather or reasons beyond our control.
- Any guest insurance.
- Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
- Backpack small ( 20 - 30 Ltrs) - to carry every day
- Warm hiking pants and shirts/T-shirts/sweatshirt.
- T-shirt wicking Layer.
- Good hiking shoes.
- Head light with extra batteries.
- Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
- Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers)
- Insulated water bottle/ flask.
- Warm fleece jacket.
- Rain Gear
- Down jacket.
- Warm gloves - thin to work in the ice.
- Warm gloves - thick (waterproof)
- Warm socks
- Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc.)
- 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower)
- Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc
- Hiking poles
- Personal climbing harness
- Ice axe
- Rope slings for self anchors
- Prescribed medication if any