Mt-Kun Expedition (7077m)
Trip Type: India Mountaineering
Region: Zanskar Valley - Ladakh
Grade: Moderately Challenging
Duration: 20 days
Max Altitude: 7077m
Batch Dates: Custom Trips Only
Mt-Kun Expedition (7077m) Overview
Mt Kun expedition (7077m) is approached via the Shafat glacier in the Zanskar Valley. Kun is the smaller peak in the Nun Kun massif and was first summitted in 1913 by Italian mountaineer Mario Piacenza. The climbing grade for Kun can vary between PD and AD depending on the month and the snow cover. Our objective is to climb it via the East Ridge.
The Nun Kun massif are the biggest peaks that dominate the Upper Suru valley in the Zanskar. Separated by a short plateau, the two peaks have separate traditional routes.
The peak itself is very accessible from the road with the base camp only a day's hike away. We follow the Shafat Nala and walk along its banks to reach the moraine and glacier. Cross the glacier and reach a green patch that serves as our base camp.
Nun and Kun are both very attractive climbs considering the easy accessibility, which is a rarity for a 7000m+ peak. The climbing Grade can vary between PD to AD. This peak is surely a natural progression if a future 8000m peak is on your bucket list.
This is a custom departure tour and so please write to us for prices and more info on this climb.
Mt Kun Expedition Detailed Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Leh (3400m)
Get a flight to Leh town and transfer to the hotel. Relax and acclimatize. Visit Leh market in the evening. Overnight Hotel.
Day 02 : Acclimatization in Leh
Optional visit to the Leh Palace and the Shey and Thikse gompas. Last minute shopping in the Leh market. Overnight hotel.
Day 03: Leh - Kargil (2676m)
Duration: 6-7 hours
We drive to Kargil today, past the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus rivers. We pass the derelict fort at Basgo, the painted caves at Saspol to reach Khalsi where the road crosses the Indus River and the beautiful Gompa at Lamayuru. Continue to cross the Fotu La (4108m) and Namika La (3700m) to reach the village of Mulbekh. 41kms further is the town of Kargil which marks the transition to a predominantly Muslim area from where one can either continue west to Kashmir or take the rough road south up the Suru valley into Zanskar, which is our destination.
Day 04: Drive Kargil to Shafat (3650m)
Duration: 7-8 hours
From Kargil, we drive further South into the Suru valley for 70km to Panikhar. The Balti settlements along this valley are surrounded by lush fields growing a wide variety of crops and fruits. As we gain height we see the first glimpses of Nun and Kun. The road turns East for 63 kms, past the last Muslim settlement of Parkachik. Our road head is Shafat, short of the Buddhist Gelukpa monastery of Rangdum. Camp next to the police post at Shafat.
Day 05: In Shafat
Take the day to sort out your equipment, take a couple of short hikes and acclimatise.
Day 06: Trek Shafat to BC (4200m)
Duration: 5-7 hours
We start our walk along the Shafat Nalla, through meadows to Chasme. From here, we walk on the moraine crossing the Shafat glacier to the Base Camp.
Day 07 - 18: Climbing days
We take the next 12 days making load ferries, setting up Mt-Kun Camp 1 (5300m), Camp 2 (6000m) and Camp 3 (6200m) while acclimatising for the summit push. The route to Camp 1 is a gradual climb through the moraine and the glacier fields of the Shafat glacier. Mt-Kun Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the crux of the climb - a 700m ice wall. We camp at the top of the ice wall.
Day 19: Mt-Kun Base Camp - Shafat
Duration: 5-6 hours
We retrace our steps back to Shafat and the road head.
Day 20: Drive back to Leh.
Drive back to Leh. Trip Ends!
- Accommodation on twin sharing basis in tents.
- Camping Tents, Kitchen tents, Dining Tents, Western Style Toilet Tents.
- Insulated sleeping pads.
- All meals as detailed in the itinerary and safe drinking water.
- Cook and camp staff.
- Climbing guide for the duration of the trip
- Pack animals (Horses/Mules) to carry loads on the route until Base Camp with personal portage up to 20 kg/person
- All J&K Forest Permits where applicable
- IMF Peak fee/State government royalty/permits where applicable
- All technical climbing group gear
- All transport from Manali to road head and back.
- All Staff Insurance
- Sleeping Bags
- Stay and food at hotels in Leh
- All expenses of personal nature like bottled water, drinks, tips, telephone calls, mineral water etc.
- Any Personal Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing.
Any other transport than whats mentioned in Cost includes.
- Any expense incurred due to force majeure such as landslide, bad weather or reasons beyond our control.
- Any Guest Insurance.
- Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
- Backpack small ( 20 - 30 Ltrs) - to carry every day
- Warm hiking pants and shirts/T-shirts/sweatshirt.
- T-shirt wicking Layer.
- Good hiking shoes.
- Head light with extra batteries.
- Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
- Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers)
- Insulated water bottle/ flask.
- Warm fleece jacket.
- Rain Gear
- Down jacket.
- Warm gloves - thin to work in the ice.
- Warm gloves - thick (waterproof)
- Warm socks
- Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc.)
- 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower)
- Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc
- Hiking poles
- Personal climbing harness
- Ice axe
- Rope slings for self anchors
- Prescribed medication if any