Mt Nun Expedition (7127m) - West Ridge

Trip Details

  • Trip Type: India Mountaineering

  • Region: Zanskar Valley - Ladakh

  • Grade: Moderately Challenging

  • Duration: 20 days

  • Max Altitude: 7127m

  • Batch Dates: Custom Trips Only

Mt Nun Expedition (7127m) Overview

Mt Nun expedition (7127m) makes for a great 7000m+ objective due to its easy accessibility. Our objective is to climb this peak via the West Ridge route - the same route as the one used for the first ascent in 1953 by Pierre Vittoz, and Claude Kogan - an early female mountaineer. The climbing Grade can vary between PD to AD. This peak is surely a natural progression if a future 8000m peak is on your bucket list.


The Nun Kun massif are the biggest peaks that dominate the Upper Suru valley in the Zanskar. Separated by a short plateau, the two peaks have separate traditional routes.


We start our trip in Leh and drive through Kargil and parts of Zanskar to reach Tangol village near Panikhar town. The trek to base camp takes just a day over loose rocks and scree.


Trip Cost

This is a custom departure tour and so please write to us for prices and more info on this climb. 


Mt Nun Expedition Detailed Itinerary

Day 01:Arrival in Leh (3400m)
Get a flight to Leh town and transfer to the hotel. Relax and acclimatise. Visit Leh market in the evening. Overnight Hotel.


Day 02 : Acclimatisation in Leh.
Optional visit to the Leh Palace and the Shey and Thikse gompas.  Last minute shopping in the Leh market. Overnight hotel.


Day 03: Leh - Kargil (2676m)
Duration: 6-7 hours
We drive to Kargil today, past the confluence of the Zanskar and the Indus rivers. We pass the derelict fort at Basgo, the painted caves at Saspol to reach Khalsi where the road crosses the Indus River and the beautiful gompa at Lamayuru. Continue to cross the Fotu La (4108m) and Namika La (3700m) to reach the village of Mulbekh. 41kms further is the town of Kargil which marks the transition to a predominantly Muslim area from where one can either continue west to Kashmir or take the rough road south up the Suru valley into Zanskar, which is our destination.


Day 04: Drive Kargil to Tangol (3400m)
Duration: 6-7 hours
From Kargil, we drive south in the Suru valley for 70km to Panikhar. The Balti settlements along this valley are surrounded by lush fields growing a wide variety of crops and fruits. As we gain height we see the first glimpses of Nun and Kun. Our road-head is the village of Tangol between the larger Panikhar and Parkachik villages. We camp at Tangol for the night.


Day 05: Tangol (3400m)
Take the day to sort out your equipment, take a couple short hikes and acclimatise.


Day 06: Trek Tangol to Base Camp (4200m)
Duration: 6-7 hours
We start the hike today walking to the Base Camp over loose rocks and scree. We climb up a small pass and descend onto the moraine and gradually climb up to the base camp.


Day 07 - 18: Climbing days
We take the next 12 days making load ferries, setting up Camp 1 (5500m), Camp 2 (6100m) and Camp 3 (6400m) while acclimatising for the summit push. The route to Camp 1 is through the moraine of the Sentik glacier and up on a 40 - 50 degree, 200m snow/ice wall. The gradient levels out and we make our way to Camp 1 on the far side of a plateau. The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is through a crevassed glacier on mixed scree, snow, ice slopes. Camp 2 to Camp 3 is a moderately steep climb on a snow wall and onto the crevassed glacier. The summit push is a steep 300m climb to the top of the West Ridge. We then traverse to reach the summit ridge and make our way to the top. View the peaks of Zanskar, Ladakh, Karakoram and the Kashmir Valley on a clear day from the summit. Return to Base Camp.


Day 19: Base Camp - Tangol
Duration: 4-5 hours
We retrace our steps back to Tangol village.


Day 20: Drive back to Leh.
Duration: 6-7 hours
Drive back to Leh. Trip Ends!

  1. Accommodation on twin sharing basis in tents.
  2. Camping Tents, Kitchen tents, Dining Tents, Western Style Toilet Tents.
  3. Insulated sleeping pads.
  4. All meals as detailed in the itinerary and safe drinking water.
  5. Cook and camp staff.
  6. Climbing guide for the duration of the trip
  7. Pack animals (Horses/Mules) to carry loads on the route until Base Camp with personal portage up to 20 kg/person 
  8. All J&K Forest Permits where applicable
  9. IMF Peak fee/State government royalty/permits where applicable
  10. All technical climbing group gear
  11. All transport from Manali to road head and back.
  12. All Staff Insurance
  1. Sleeping Bags
  2. Stay and food at hotels in Leh
  3. All expenses of personal nature like bottled water, drinks, tips, telephone calls, mineral water etc.
  4. Any Personal Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing.
  5. Any other transport than whats mentioned in Cost includes.
  6. Any expense incurred due to force majeure such as landslide, bad weather or reasons beyond our control.
  7. Any Guest Insurance.
  1. Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
  2. Backpack small ( 20 - 30 Ltrs) - to carry every day
  3. Warm hiking pants and shirts/T-shirts/sweatshirt.
  4. T-shirt wicking Layer.
  5. Good hiking shoes.
  6. Head light with extra batteries.
  7. Sunglasses.
  8. Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
  9. Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers)
  10. Insulated water bottle/ flask.
  11. Warm fleece jacket.
  12. Rain Gear
  13. Down jacket.
  14. Warm gloves - thin to work in the ice.
  15. Warm gloves - thick (waterproof)
  16. Warm socks
  17. Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc.)
  18. 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower)
  19. Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc
  20. Hiking poles
  21. Personal climbing harness
  22. Helmet
  23. Gaiters
  24. Crampons
  25. Carabiners
  26. Ice axe
  27. Rope slings for self anchors
  28. Prescribed medication if any