Pamir Four Summits Expedition (Lenin Peak - 7134m) - Kyrgyzstan
Trip Type: Mountaineering
Duration: 20 days
Max Altitude: 7134m
Batch Dates: 10 Aug - 26 Aug, 2022
Pamir Four Summits Expedition (Lenin Peak) Overview
Lenin Peak is the highest summit of the Trans-Alai Range on the frontier of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Once thought to be the highest mountain in what was then the Soviet Union, Lenin Peak was relegated to third place by the discovery in that Stalin Peak (Communism Peak/Ismail Samani Peak) and Victory Peak were higher. The first ascent was made in 1928 from the south by German alpinists included in the First Pamirs Expedition of the Soviet (now Russian) Academy of Sciences .
Mt. Lenin Peak (7134m) is considered to be one of the most popular, easily accessed and hence most frequented summits among 7,000m peaks of the Pamir. It’s a common belief that the Lenin Peak (Pik Lenin) is one of the easiest of the CIS’s four 7,000m-odd peaks to climb, a statement which is true to a certain extent but is far from representing the whole story. It must be remembered that an altitude over 7,000m places the peak clearly in the category of high-altitude climbing. The ascent route in itself is not a technically difficult one and is normally carried out by mountaineers climbing roped up. However, the success or failure of your Lenin Peak expedition is mostly dependant on weather and acclimatisation.
We access the Base Camp (BC) from the town of Osh. From Osh to the Base Camp of the Lenin Peak we drive along the Pamir Highway M-41. This trip combines climbing Peak Lenin with acclimatisation on three summits - Petrovsky (4,700 m), Yukhin (5,130 m) and Razdelnaya (6,148 m) Peaks - in the strikingly beautiful alpine area of the Pamirs.
Dates and Cost
Fixed Departure in 2022.
10 August - 26 August 2021
Trip cost: USD 2950
Feel free to write to us with any questions you might have
Pamir Four Summits Expedition (Lenin Peak - 7134m) - Kyrgyzstan Detailed Itinerary
Day 01: Osh Airport - Base Camp
Arrival in Osh early in the morning. With a quick stop in the city for any last minute essentials, we start the 7 hour journey to the Mountain Yurt Camp (Base Camp) on Edelweiss Meadow at Lenin Peak's foot. The road from Osh to the Base Camp runs across two mountain passes - Chyyyrchyk (2,408 m) and Taldyk (3,615 m) on the picturesque M41 highway. After settling in we go in an acclimatisation walk to Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow (3,800 m, +200 m). A walking trip to lakes across Achik-Tash River Valley is also possible Overnight at the Base Camp (3600m).
The Base Camp has comfortable four-berth base tents per 2 members. Tents feature electrical outlets, individual lighting - desk camp, wooden deck flooring, mattresses, covers, pillows and furnishing: blanket cover, pillowcases and bed sheet.
Day 02: Base Camp - Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200m) - Base Camp
We take an acclimatization walk trip to the Puteshestvennikov Pass today. As we leave the Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow behind us we walk along a beaten path to a waterfall and further to the saddle of the pass. It takes from 2 to 2.5 hours to get to the pass. We shall then walk on up along the ridge, as high as possible to maximise acclimatisation. Return to Base Camp.
Day 03: Base Camp - Petrovsky Peak (4,700m) - Base Camp
Departing from the Base Camp on the Edelweiss Meadow, we traverse the Achik Tash River Valley and cross the numerous broad branches of the Achik Tash River and approach the foot of the grass-covered slope, on which we shall go up to the ridge. The ridge does get quite steep in parts, the relief consists of grassy slopes, which then pass into a mixture of grass and scree and then scree alone.
As we reach the technical portion of the route we must put on belay systems, ice axe, crampons and gaiters. The slope’s steepness reaches 50° in places. We reach the snow-covered summit in roped up teams and descend to Base Camp after spending some time on the summit.
Day 04: Base Camp - Camp 1 (4400m)
We start with an ascent again to Puteshestvennikov Pass (4,200 m). It’s always windy on the pass, which may also be snow-covered.
Descent from the pass is simple and does not take long. We cross the morraine and a rapid stream and carry on uphill along the path leading to the Lenin Glacier - approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Crossing the stream can sometimes be difficult because of high water. Camp 1 is set up on the moraine of the Lenin Glacier and truly is most comfortable camp of the area. Three spacious and comfortable yurts provide nice and constant warmth.
Day 05: Camp 1 - Yukhin Peak (5130m) - Camp 1
From Camp 1 its a steady climb to our second summit of the trip, the 5000m+ Yukhin Peak. We descend to Camp 1 for the night.
Day 06: Rest day in Camp 1 (4,400m). Optional: ascending a 4,750-metre Peak.
A day to rest and recover. Optionally, we can climb the ridge leading to the peak to an altitude of 4,750 metres assisted by the guide. This gently sloping ridge runs up parallel with the glacier.
Day 07: Camp 1 - Camp 2 (5,300m)
We leave the camp to first go uphill along the Lenin Glacier to the foot of the grandiose North Face then further up across crevasses on the steep slope, covered in very deep snow using fixed ropes or climbing. Carry on across to the scree slope and to Camp 2. Accommodation in standard high altitude tents.
Day 08: Camp 2 - Razdelnaya Peak (6,148m) - Camp 2
We start the day with an ascent of a 25-30-degrees slope to reach the ridge. The wind may be very strong on this section. Turn left and carry on along the level ridge towards the top of the Razdelnaya Peak in deep snow to reach the third summit on the tour. Camp 3 (6,100 m) is located right under the summit; however, you will descend directly to Camp 2 (5,300 m).
Day 09 - 19: Reserved for climbing Peak Lenin
We make our way back to base camp to recoup and recover before the long push to Lenin Peak. The program for the following days depends on the weather. We spend a couple of days at base camp and then head for the summit camping at Camp 1, 2 & 3.
For the summit push, we start at 5-6 AM. There is a steep 300m-long stretch that flattens out onto a steep narrow ice ridge. Carry on along the stony ridge towards the snow plateau (6,900 - 7,000 m) and finally continue on up to the summit. After spending some time at the summit, descend to Camp 3 and make our way to Base Camp over the nexrt couple days.
Day 20: Base Camp - Osh.
After breakfast, we pack our things and drive back to Osh and check into our hotel. Stop at the market for souvenier shopping.
Day 21: Transfer to airport. Departure. Trip Ends!
- Accommodation on twin sharing basis in tents & Osh (1 night)
- Transfer Osh - BC and BC - Osh;
- All needed documents arrangement (permit to the border zone, OVIR registration)
- Rescue party registration; Rent of portable radio station
- Accommodation in Base Camp (3600 m) in spacious camping tents per 2 members.
Facilities of camping tents in BC:
- beds, mattresses, coverlet, and pillows
- changeable bed linen: flat sheets, bedsheets, and pillowcases
- electrical outlets and individual lighting - desk lamp
- Accommodation in Camp 1 (4400 m) in spacious camping tents per 2 members. Facilities of camping tents in C1: wooden decks, thermal isolation, foam mattresses
- Meals in BC and C1 - Full board: 3 times hot meals made by professional cookers, including vegetarian meals under request (does not include meals in Osh)
- Climbing guide for the duration of the trip
- All technical climbing group gear
- Food at hotel in Osh.
- All expenses of personal nature like bottled water, drinks, tips, telephone calls, mineral water etc.
- Any Personal Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing.
- Airfare and Visa fee
Any other transport than whats mentioned in Cost includes.
- Any expense incurred due to force majeure such as landslide, bad weather or reasons beyond our control.
- Any Guest Insurance.
- Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)
- Backpack small ( 20 - 30 Ltrs)
- Warm hiking pants and shirts/T-shirts/sweatshirt.
- T-shirt wicking Layer.
- Good hiking shoes.
- Head light with extra batteries.
- Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
- Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers)
- Insulated water bottle/ flask.
- Warm fleece jacket.
- Rain Gear
- Down jacket.
- Warm gloves - thin to work in the ice.
- Warm gloves - thick (waterproof)
- Warm socks
- Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc.)
- 4 season sleeping bag (-20 deg C or lower)
- Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc
- Hiking poles
- Personal climbing harness
- Ice axe
- Rope slings for self anchors
- Prescribed medication if any