Kang Yatze I (6400m) & II (6200m) - Markha Valley

Trip Details

  • Trip Type: Mountaineering

  • Region: Markha Valley - Ladakh

  • Grade: Moderately Challenging

  • Duration: 10-14 days

  • Max Altitude: 6400m

  • Batch Dates: Custom Trips Only

Kang Yatze I (6400m) & II (6200m) - Markha Valley Overview

The Kang Yatze 1 (6400m) and 2 (6200m) are situated at the head of Markha valley. Kang Yatse II is a non-technical or trekking peak for those who have beginner mountaineering knowledge. Towering over the vast Nimaling pasture, it's a beautiful peak that makes for a great climbing objective. The nearest town is Leh, the capital of Ladakh.

 

We approach the mountain via Shang Sumdo in the Hemis region of Ladakh. It is a steep climb through a narrow valley to reach the 5100m pass - Kongmarula. Once atop the pass, the expansive Nimaling pastures open up beneath us and we descend down to the valley floor and onward to the base camp.

 

Kang Yatse II is the shoulder of the mountain and can be classified as a F on the Alpine grade. The main summit,  Kang Yatze I which is 6400m forms a harder climbing objective for the experienced mountaineer. The last 500 mts of the climb is where the crux lies and would be classified as a D on the alpine grade. Expect an ice wall / compact snow (depending on the season) of about 60  degrees to ascend. On a clear summit day, view K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum Massif in the North and Nun, Kun and the Zanskar peaks in the West.

Trip Cost

This is a custom departure tour and so please write to us for prices and more info on this climb. 

Mountaineering

Detailed Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Leh.
Get a flight to Leh town and transfer to the hotel. Relax and acclimatize. Visit Leh market in the evening. Overnight Hotel.

Day 02 : Acclimatization in Leh.
Optional visit to the Leh Palace and the Shey and Thikse gompas.  Last minute shopping in the Leh market. Overnight hotel.

Day 03: Leh - Shang Sumdo (3300m)
Duration: 3 hours
We drive to Shang Sumdo today, with an optional stop at the Hemis Monastery. Our camp for the day is in Shang Sumdo village, close to the road. The village as a well-maintained monastery that you can visit.

Day 04: Shang Sumdo - Choskirmo.
Duration: 3-4 hours
We start the day with mostly walking along the river bed to get to Choskirmo village. The valley starts getting narrower as we gain height. We camp above the village for the night.

Day 05: Choskirmo - Kong Maru La Base.
Duration: 5-6 hours
Walk up the narrow valley on a gradual incline. We cross the shallow stream many times today - mostly jumping on rocks, dependent on water levels. We camp at the base of Kong Maru La.

Day 06: Kong Maru La Base - Nimaling (4700m)
Duration:6-7 hours
A long day today. We start on the steep uphill to the Komg Maru La Pass Trek up to Base Camp at Nimaling, after crossing Kong Maru La at 5260m. At the top of the pass, the valley opens up and we can see the vast pastures of Nimaling. Descend down to Nimaling to camp by the stream.

Day 07:Nimaling - Base Camp (4800m)
Duration: 2-3 hours
Today is a short day. We proceed from Nimaling over a small pass and descend down to the Base Camp for Kang Yatse on the banks of another stream.

Day 08: Base Camp - Kang Yatse II (6200m) - Base Camp
Duration: 8-10 hours
We start in the early hours of the morning and make our way through a moraine to the glaciated snow slopes of Kang Yatse. It is a gradual walk all the way except for a few steep bits where we rope up. On a clear summit day, view K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum Massif in the North and Nun, Kun and the Zanskar peaks in the West. Return to Base Camp in the early afternoon and of Kang Yatse I to the East.

Day 09:Base Camp - KY 1 Advance Base Camp (5500m)
Duration: 5-6 hours
For our summit attempt on Kang Yatse 1 we establish an Advance Base Camp closer to the climbing route on the glacier. Overnight at ABC.

Day 10 & 11: ABC - Kang Yatse I - BC
We start in the dark again and negotiate a 150m ice/snow wall and onward to another shorter ice wall before we reach the summit.  We summit and return to Base Camp.

Day 12: Base Camp - Choskirmo.
Duration: 6-8 hours
We retrace our steps to Nimaling and up Kong Maru La and return to Choskirmo.

Day 13: Choskirmo - Shang Sumdo - Leh
Duration: 5 hours
Walk 2 hours to get to our waiting vehicles at the village of Chokdo. Our cars take us directly to Leh. Trip Ends!

Cost Includes

  1. Accommodation on twin sharing basis in tents.
  2. Camping Tents, Kitchen tents, Dining Tents, Western Style Toilet Tents.
  3. Insulated sleeping pads.
  4. All meals as detailed in the itinerary and safe drinking water.
  5. Cook and camp staff.
  6. Climbing guide for the duration of the trip
  7. Pack animals (Horses/Mules) to carry loads on the route until Base Camp with personal portage up to 20 kg/person 
  8. All J&K Forest Permits where applicable
  9. IMF Peak fee/State government royalty/permits where applicable
  10. All technical climbing group gear
  11. All transport from Manali to road head and back.
  12. All Staff Insurance

Cost Excludes

  1. Sleeping Bags
  2. Stay and food at hotels in Leh
  3. All expenses of personal nature like bottled water, drinks, tips, telephone calls, mineral water etc.
  4. Any Personal Mountaineering Equipment and Clothing.
  5. Any other transport than whats mentioned in Cost includes.
  6. Any expense incurred due to force majeure such as landslide, bad weather or reasons beyond our control.
  7. Any Guest Insurance.

Things you need to get

  1. Sturdy backpack/rucksack (70 lt)- This will go on horses until Base Camp
  2. Backpack small ( 20 - 30 Ltrs) - to carry every day
  3. Warm hiking pants and shirts/T-shirts/sweatshirt.
  4. T-shirt wicking Layer.
  5. Good hiking shoes.
  6. Head light with extra batteries.
  7. Sunglasses.
  8. Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and toiletries.
  9. Thermal underwear / long johns (upper + lowers)
  10. Insulated water bottle/ flask.
  11. Warm fleece jacket.
  12. Rain Gear
  13. Down jacket.
  14. Warm gloves - thin to work in the ice.
  15. Warm gloves - thick (waterproof)
  16. Warm socks
  17. Headgear (balaclavas/woollen cap, sun hat, bandana etc.)
  18. 4 season sleeping bag (-10 deg C or lower)
  19. Personal recreation: camera, books, music, cards etc
  20. Hiking poles
  21. Personal climbing harness
  22. Helmet
  23. Gaiters
  24. Crampons
  25. Carabiners
  26. Ice axe
  27. Rope slings for self anchors
  28. Prescribed medication if any